Why The Industry Owes Black Beauty Creators More – Essence


Images via TikTok

The Black community is the culture—undeniably, unapologetically, and powerfully influential. From the beauty standards we see on runways to the viral trends dominating social media, so much of what’s celebrated in mainstream spaces originates from Black creativity.

Non-Black celebrities and influencers often replicate these trends, and beauty brands eagerly market them to the masses. Yet, the very architects of this culture—Black creators—are frequently left behind, facing significant disparities in payment, recognition, and treatment. It’s a painful irony that those who set the standard are often excluded from the benefits and opportunities their contributions generate. 

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Femininity and self-love through beauty content creator Chika Uwazie speaks to her personal experience. “Being a Black creator in the beauty industry has been both rewarding and challenging. On one hand, it’s empowering to see the impact Black creators have in shaping beauty standards, trends, and consumer behavior,” she says. “However, it’s also clear that we often fight for recognition, respect and equitable pay where our influence is undeniable.”

As much as the industry attempts to erase our influence we are the backbone of the industry. There are so many trends, such as the below, rooted in Black culture that have become mainstream.

Baby Hairs

Styling baby hairs, often slicked down in intricate patterns, has deep roots in the Black and Latinx communities. What was once seen as “ghetto” is now celebrated on runways and red carpets, with celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Hailey Bieber adopting the look. 

Box Braids & Protective Styles 

Box braids, cornrows, and other protective styles have been staples in Black hair culture for centuries, symbolizing heritage and resilience. These styles have been co-opted in fashion shows and by non-Black influencers, often stripped of their cultural significance.

Contouring

The makeup technique of contouring, used to sculpt and define facial features, has roots in Black drag culture. Black performers used it to enhance their features on stage long before it became a mainstream phenomenon. Take lip contouring, for instance: Black women pioneered this practice in the 1990s, enhancing and defining lips well before it became a trend. 

The “Clean Girl” Aesthetic

This minimalist, glowing aesthetic has roots in Black beauty, particularly in how Black women emphasize skincare, natural brows, and glossy lips. While it’s now a TikTok trend, its origins are rarely credited to the Black women that have championed it for decades. 

Nail Art & Acrylic Nails

Intricate nail art and long acrylic nails originated in Black beauty salons, often serving as a form of self-expression and artistry. This style, once dismissed as “unprofessional,” is now embraced by mainstream brands and celebrities–most recently and notably Marc Jacobs

This is just to name a few. Many brands and celebrities market these trends and products associated with these trends as their own creation. If brands are willing to pass these trends as their own, it should come to no surprise that Black creators aren’t properly paid or recognized. It’s not to say that non-Black creators and brands can’t be inspired by these trends however, there is a difference between appropriation and celebration. One of the main differentiating factors is recognizing and giving flowers to the originators. 

According to the Sevensix Agency Influencer Pricing Report Black influencers make 34.04% less than their white influencer counterparts. “Unfortunately, disparities in compensation and opportunities are very real. I’ve had moments where I found out non-Black creators with similar followings were paid significantly more for the same campaign.

There have also been instances where Black creators weren’t even considered for brand partnerships until there was public pressure to diversify,” says beauty and lifestyle creator Oyin Edogi. 2x Emmy Award Winning Makeup Artist and beauty creator Julie Jules echos this sentiment saying, “To address the pay gap, there needs to be a fundamental shift in how the industry values representation and diversity as a whole. Historically, the beauty industry has prioritized non-Black creators reflecting the biases it was built upon.” 

The disparities Black creators face aren’t random—they stem from systemic biases deeply ingrained in the beauty industry. Historically, beauty brands have catered to Eurocentric ideals, sidelining Black consumers and creators in favor of aesthetics deemed “marketable” to a broader audience. This mindset persists today, with brands continuing to prioritize non-Black creators in partnerships, campaigns, and decision-making spaces.

These systemic issues go beyond pay. Black creators are often excluded from product launches, events, and PR opportunities unless brands are focusing on “diversity campaigns” or specific cultural moments like Black History Month. Even then, their inclusion tends to be performative—limited to token representation rather than a genuine commitment to amplifying Black voices.

On the other hand, the industry is finally starting to acknowledge that recognizing the power of the Black consumer is no longer optional. According to a 2021 McKinsey report, Black consumers spent $6.6 billion on beauty and personal care products, accounting for 11.1% of the $500 billion U.S. beauty market. The data is clear: brands understand the importance of capturing the Black consumer. However, few have found ways to do so authentically and consistently. 

Uwazie highlights this point, stating, “Black women are some of the largest spenders in beauty, yet when campaigns lack representation or fail to include Black creators in meaningful ways, they damage the brand’s credibility and alienate the very consumer they rely on.”

Even when Black creators are included in campaigns or product launches, the efforts often come across as performative. Representation in the beauty industry has come a long way, but it’s still a work in progress,” says Edogi. “I’ve noticed brands use diversity as a buzzword without real action. For instance, campaigns will often feature a few token Black creators instead of truly embracing inclusivity across the board. I’ve also experienced the frustration of seeing limited shade ranges or marketing that doesn’t reflect our full spectrum of beauty. These challenges remind me why my work is important, and I’m committed to being a part of the change.”

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The beauty industry must do better—not just to meet the expectations of Black consumers but to authentically embrace the creators and voices that have always driven its innovation and success.

But how can the beauty industry begin to address this pay gap and overall treatment of Black creators? The following steps can be taken. 

Revamp Influencer Pay Structures

Establish transparent and equitable pay standards to ensure Black creators are compensated fairly for their work, on par with their non-Black counterparts.

Center Black Talent Authentically

Feature Black creators and talent prominently in campaigns—not as an afterthought or token inclusion, but as integral voices shaping the brand’s narrative.

Commit to Long-Term Partnerships 

Build lasting relationships with Black creators that extend beyond Black History Month or fleeting diversity initiatives. Consistent support demonstrates true commitment and fosters trust.

By taking these actions, the beauty industry can begin to create a more inclusive and equitable space for the Black creators who continue to drive its innovation and success. 

The industry won’t change overnight. Creating meaningful progress, shifting mindsets, and the inclusion of more diverse leadership and teams in the rooms where key decisions are made will take time. “We need Black professionals in leadership roles–especially in marketing, influencer partnerships, and creative strategy. These people have the power to set budgets, shape narratives, and ensure campaigns are inclusive,” Uwazie emphasizes. Jules echos this sentiment, adding, “Bridging this gap requires ensuring that Black voices and perspectives are included at every level, especially in decision-making spaces. Jules continues, “Representation among executives, decision-makers, and campaign strategists is crucial to create equitable opportunities and recognize the value of Black beauty creators.

In the meantime, while the beauty industry works to catch up, Black creators have the power to take meaningful actions to uplift one another and create their own spaces. Building a sense of community and mutual support is crucial in navigating an industry that often fails to prioritize their voices. Jules emphasizes this, stating, I lean on my network of other creators and industry professionals to stay informed and support one another in pushing for fair treatment.” A choir is always stronger than a single voice.

Having a safe space to share experiences, exchange ideas, and brainstorm actions to drive change is invaluable. Edogi highlights the importance of this, saying, The community of Black beauty creators has been my backbone. It’s a space where we share experiences, offer advice, and hold each other up in an industry that doesn’t always prioritize us.”

Reflecting on her own journey, Edogi shares an anecdote: “I remember when I first started. I had no idea what I was doing. I was taken in by a group of Black women who looked like me. They made it a point to teach me about this industry. Whether it’s trading notes or celebrating each other’s wins, the camaraderie is unmatched.”

This sense of unity has proven essential in addressing disparities. “We’re louder and stronger as a collective,” Edogi continues. “It’s empowering to know we’re rewriting the narrative and paving the way for the next generation of Black creators.” By standing together, Black creators are not only supporting each other but also shaping the future of an industry that owes much of its success to their innovation and resilience.

The power of the word ‘no’ is also something that shouldn’t be underestimated. For Black creators, saying no is not just a rejection of misaligned opportunities but also an assertion of their value and boundaries. Too often, creators are expected to accept what is offered, even when it falls short of their worth. Setting limits and choosing authenticity over appeasement has become a crucial tool in navigating an industry that doesn’t always prioritize equity.

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Jules emphasizes the importance of boundaries, stating that she “believes in setting boundaries and being willing to walk away from opportunities that don’t align with [her] worth or values.” Similarly, Edogi shares, “If something doesn’t align with my values or feels forced, it doesn’t make it to my page—period.” This intentionality ensures that the content they create and the partnerships they build are rooted in authenticity and mutual respect.

Uwazie echoes this sentiment, explaining how her approach has shifted over time: “I’m more intentional about the brands that I work with now. If a brand doesn’t align with my values or respect my worth, I don’t move forward with them.” For her, this decision isn’t just about turning down one-off opportunities but about creating space for partnerships that feel genuine and authentic. “This form of empowerment has allowed me to focus on building partnerships with brands that genuinely value me,” she adds.

By exercising this power, Black creators are challenging the status quo and refusing to settle for less than they deserve. This intentionality sends a clear message to the industry: respect for their craft and contributions is non-negotiable. It also paves the way for future creators to feel empowered to do the same, reinforcing the importance of authenticity, self-respect, and standing firm in their worth.

The beauty industry stands at a pivotal moment. While systemic change will take time, the work must begin now, with a commitment to equity, authenticity, recognition, and representation. The Black community has always been the heartbeat of beauty innovation yet, Black creators have to fight tirelessly for credit, fair pay, and opportunities. It’s long overdue for the industry to reflect the value and influence of the creators with actionable support. 

At the same time, the resilience and solidarity among Black creators offers a powerful model for progress. By uplifting one another, building community, and advocating for shared success, they are not only navigating an inequitable system but actively rewriting its rules. This unity is a reminder that collective effort can drive towards a more inclusive future. 

The beauty industry has a choice: continue with performative gestures, or embrace real, transformative action that reflects the contributions of its true innovators. The path forward is clear, and with collaboration, intention, and accountability, the industry can finally honor the culture that has always been its foundation.



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