These Are The Top Hyperpigmentation Hacks You Didn’t Know You Needed, According to Experts – Essence
Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin concerns for melanated beauties. If you’ve ever dealt with stubborn dark spots, you know it can feel like an uphill battle. Whether caused by acne, sun exposure, or inflammation, hyperpigmentation tends to show up more prominently on deeper skin tones, often taking longer to fade without the right care.
The key to tackling it? A consistent routine with products that work with your skin, not against it. From brightening serums to sun protection (yes, sunscreen is non-negotiable), there’s a world of options to help you achieve that even-toned, radiant glow you deserve.
Below, Dr. Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology, Dr. Corrie Alford, board-certified dermatologist at MetroDerm, and Richina Lukes-Milledge, a board-certified nurse practitioner at L’Elite MediSpa, tell ESSENCE all about hyperpigmentation and how to prevent it.
What should I know about hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition caused by an overproduction of melanin,” explains Dr. Hartman. He notes that while the shape and size of the discolorations can vary based on the trigger, they typically appear as flat, uneven patches on the skin. Dr. Alford notes that it can occur anywhere on the body, although it’s most common on “the forehead, cheeks, and upper lip.”
What does hyperpigmentation look like on Black skin?
Like any other skin condition, hyperpigmentation shows up in brown spots, dark spots, patches, or other discoloration on melanated skin. Lukes-Milledge notes that melanin-producing cells, which are called melanocytes, disburse more melanin in Black people than other skin tones. “Darker skin responds to trauma, inflammation, and UV light with more release of melanin.” Dr. Hartman also shares that hyperpigmentation is caused by unprotected sun exposure, increased hormone levels or a skin trauma like an acne lesion or cut. “Certain medications can also raise your risk for hyperpigmentation.”
How do I treat hyperpigmentation?
There are many ingredients and products that are helpful for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, but it’s important to start one step at a time. Dr. Hartman notes that most topicals in the market that treat hyperpigmentation can be irritating on your skin and actually create hyperpigmentation. While it may take some time to treat hyperpigmentation, you should first start with designing a routine for hyperpigmentation. Lukes-Milledge and Dr. Hartman also recommends microneedling and chemical peel to treat hyperpigmentation, but you should consult with a board-certified dermatologist who has experience treating skin of color.
Dr. Hartman also notes that you can prevent hyperpigmentation by wearing sunscreen daily and not using harsh skincare products that might trigger skin irritation, leading to more hyperpigmentation. “People with melanated skin might find that certain exfoliating ingredients are too harsh to use at all, or may find using them infrequently is the right cadence,” says Dr. Hartman. “Be consistent with your skincare routine – if you are seeing results, continue to use the products.”
Use Vitamin C in the morning & Retinol at night
Dr. Hartman recommends using retinol, antioxidants and sunscreen in your skincare routine, calling it “the holy trinity of skincare.” They work together incredibly well to protect your skin and reduce fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. “It’s easy to separate them, so doing so will ensure you get the maximum benefit without risking irritation.” You can use a Vitamin C product in the morning and retinol during your evening skincare routine. “It’s easy to separate them, so doing so will ensure you get the maximum benefit without risking irritation.”
Use topical treatments
Lukes-Milledge recommends using topical treatments that have amazing ingredients like turmeric, papaya, and kojic acid to help fade hyperpigmentation. You can also look for other ingredients like niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), or beta hydroxy acid (BHA) to treat hyperpigmentation.”Apply all serums at night because the body heals itself at night.”
Use Hydroquinone
Say if your hyperpigmentation is getting worse, Dr. Alford notes that the only FDA-approved medication to treat hyperpigmentation is hydroquinone, but it must be prescribed by a physician. “Hydroquinone can be prescribed alone or in combination with other medications to increase its effectiveness.”
Wear sunscreen
Without a doubt, both Dr. Hartman and Lukes-Milledge cannot recommend using sunscreen to prevent hyperpigmentation enough, as it can decrease the risk of future irritation or damage to the skin. “Wear broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to prevent UV damage with at least a SPF of 30,” says Lukes-Milledge.
