ESScent Of The Week: How Francis Kurkdjian Bottled Childhood Joy With “Kurky” – Essence
When Francis Kurkdjian unveils a new fragrance, the perfume world is ready and waiting. And baby, as soon as I heard about it, I was sat for this launch.
His latest creation, KURKY, represents a departure from his usual sophisticated compositions, and as a fruity fragrance lover, I’m completely obsessed.
What makes KURKY so special is how it celebrates the inner child in all of us. The moment it touched my skin, the tutti-frutti accord gives an instant burst of tangy peach and raspberry that just instantly puts you in a good mood. I rarely go for overly fruity fragrances (there’s a fine line between being sweet, artificial smelling and even juvenile), but Kurkdjian has managed to balance this perfectly with creamy, slightly vanillic musks that ground the composition making it playful, yet sophisticated.
And just as I began putting some of my heavier fragrances to make way for a new season, this one arrived just in time for spring as a personal creation from the master perfumer himself, drawing from intimate childhood memories. The name comes from Kurkdjian’s playful nickname, and you can feel that same playfulness in every spritz. The fragrance was actually inspired by a scent he created as gifts for friends’ newborns, along with his cherished memory of sugared almonds from his baptism, kept in a bright orange box that clearly made an impression that lasted throughout his lifetime.
Why I’m loving it: There is rarely a time when Francis Kurkdjian misses when it comes to fragrances, and with this one he combined my love of all the things good, feminine and fruity. The opening gives off a slightly powdery vibe that quickly transitions into these gorgeous gummy fruity notes, that are simply beautiful. It’s important to understand this isn’t a childish scent at all. The powder element is more sugared than baby powder, or rather, sophisticated without being juvenile. I find myself reaching for this one on days when I need a quick mood boost, or when the weather finally breaks and spring feels like it’s finally on the horizon. I was able to pull this out on those days in March when we had fake spring, and the temperature reached 75 degrees (it gave me an opportunity to envision how this one would play in my fragrance wardrobe all season long). There’s something undeniably joyful about wearing KURKY that makes me smile every time I catch a whiff of it on my wrist.
Now, while I do love it, sometimes you’ve got to take the good with the bad. What surprised me most about KURKY was the staying power, or rather the lack thereof. After about an hour, I struggled to detect it on my skin, which is so unexpected from the house that gave us Baccarat Rouge 540 (which literally lasts forever on me). On clothes, I get maybe three hours before it fades considerably. The projection is minimal—essentially a skin scent that stays close. For those who love a whisper rather than a shout, this might be perfect, but I do wish it had more lasting power. I’ve never been one to oppose throwing my fragrance in my bag for touch-ups throughout the day, but at this price point? It leaves more to be desired. Not to mention, given MFK’s reputation for creating fragrances that are considered “beast mode,” this feels like a deliberate choice rather than an oversight. Perhaps emphasizing the fleeting nature of childhood memories.
Perfect pairings: KURKY’s light, fruity character makes it ideal for layering experiments. I’ve been pairing it with Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 to give it more longevity and a woody backbone that helps the fruit notes pop even more. Another fantastic combination is layering it with Byredo’s Blanche because the clean, aldehydic quality enhances KURKY’s creamy musk base without overwhelming the playful fruit.
For evenings, try KURKY with a touch of Kilian’s Love Don’t Be Shy. The marshmallow and orange blossom notes in Love create an addictive gourmand effect when combined with KURKY’s peach and raspberry.
The bottle itself deserves mention because it stays true to MFK’s iconic silhouette but finished in a peachy lacquer that catches the light beautifully. The label features “Kurky” in a childlike cursive that perfectly captures the fragrance’s inspiration.
As we head into the warmer months, KURKY offers something genuinely different from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. It might not have the projection or longevity of his other creations, but it’s worth getting your nose on and making a decision for yourself.
