For Tembe Denton-Hurst, a fresh manicure isn’t just a beauty routine—it’s a ritual that marks her transformation into her most confident self. While she appreciates intricate nail designs, she prefers efficiency—a quick, grounding session to reset amidst her packed life.
Between writing about beauty, penning her debut novel Homebodies (with a second one on the way), and curating the book-centric Substack Extracurricular, Denton-Hurst knows how to juggle passion and purpose. Now, she’s channeling that energy into Fresh Sets, a gorgeous coffee table book that celebrates nail art as an international form of personal expression.
You can’t fully appreciate nail art without considering the emotions behind it, and for Denton-Hurst, like many manicure devotees, her nails are closely tied to her mood. “A fresh set is mandatory,” she says. “When they look good, I feel charged up. When they don’t, I feel like I’m in my weakest form. I don’t feel like a bad bitch—I feel like everything but.”
Denton-Hurst’s go-to manicure is classic: a French manicure—or a colorful French with a twist—because she’s all about low-maintenance, high-impact style. “I’m probably always going to have a French manicure,” she says. “I’m also kind of lazy about getting to the nail salon every two weeks, and French tips hide the grow-out, which is great.” It’s effortless chic with a touch of rebellion, keeping her hands polished without the hassle.
Growing up in Brooklyn in the early 2000s, Denton-Hurst was surrounded by bold, creative nail art—gems, airbrushing, zebra stripes, and animal prints. “The cool girls were always getting their nails done. The pretty girls were always getting their nails done. So, it felt like a rite of passage to start wearing acrylics.” Nails were never just an accessory—they were a declaration of identity. So when the opportunity arose for Denton-Hurst to showcase nail art from around the globe, it felt like a natural fit.
Below, Denton-Hurst takes us on a journey through the satisfaction of a fresh set, the lessons she learned from interviewing nail artists worldwide, her love for coffee table books, and how nail art has become a cornerstone of her self-care practice.
ESSENCE: You’ve written a whole book exploring nail art, so I’ve got to ask—how do you feel when you have a fresh set?
Tembe Denton-Hurst: A fresh set is mandatory for me. I absolutely love nail art. I was never enamored with my hands in particular—I just saw them as… hands. But once I started getting my nails done, that completely shifted. My relationship with my hands changed, and I saw them as an opportunity to express myself through nail art. It’s something I genuinely love now.
That ahhhh feeling when in between beauty appointments—for nails, hair, etc.—can be so real. Are you someone who’s super diligent about scheduling your nail appointments?
TDH: I’m definitely more ad hoc now. I’ve been going to the same nail salon for the last five years, so they know me well, which is great. I’ll usually just take whatever appointment is available. I’ll call and ask, ‘Do you have time today?’ They’re flexible, so I’m flexible, which works out. I used to be very structured, scheduling my appointments 3–4 months in advance. Now, I take a more go-with-the-flow approach to scheduling.
What’s inspiring your manicures these days?
TDH: The seasons definitely influence my color choices—lighter shades in spring and summer, darker tones in winter. I get most of my nail ideas from Pinterest. People always compliment my nails, and I’m like, ‘Thanks, it’s from Pinterest!’ (Laughs) I’m not super creative when it comes to nails. Often, I’ll see a vintage jazz album cover or a certain pattern or a room’s decor that resonates with me, and I’ll pull color inspiration from that, rather than focusing on specific designs or styles.
Writing a book can be such a big undertaking. With Fresh Sets, what made you decide to take this journey again, but with a focus on nail art?
TDH: Prestel reached out to me about doing a nail art book, and I was like, “Absolutely!” It felt serendipitous—it was the right time because I was between novels, and it gave me the chance to shift gears and try something new. I’m also a huge coffee table book fan and collector. I love how they communicate your taste and interests without necessarily screaming it.
Plus, they’re a way to incorporate art into your life that you might not be able to own otherwise. Maybe you can’t afford a Noah Davis painting, but you can afford his monograph, that kind of thing. So, having my own coffee table book now is really exciting. It’s like both of my worlds coming together—it’s been pretty cool.
Can you give us a glimpse into your coffee table collection? Is there a beauty book you’d like to shout out?
TDH: One of my favorites is Nadine Ijewere: Our Own Selves, a book by the fashion photographer Nadine Ijewere. It’s not super beauty-focused, but it has this beautiful intersection of fashion and beauty. I absolutely love it. The cover is pink, and the book itself is gorgeous. It looks great wherever you place it.
You interviewed nail artists from around the globe—Tokyo to Melbourne to New York City to Paris. Were there any common threads you noticed among them?
TDH: The common thread was that every nail artist approaches it as an art form, which I think is really interesting. As consumers, we often interact with nail art in a different way—we’re looking to fit into trends. But for nail artists, it’s about using nails as a canvas to push boundaries. Many artists aren’t focused on wearability; instead, they’re expanding the definition of what nail art can be—sometimes all the way up the hand or curling over the finger.
These pieces might not be practical, but they’re incredibly captivating. What stood out was how each artist’s work felt like an extension of their own aesthetic. When I asked about their inspirations, they often referenced nature, film, and television—similar to how a designer might reflect on a trip when designing a new collection. Even though the canvas is small, they truly maximize the space to create some really impressive stuff.
As someone who has done a lot in the nail art space, as a nail enthusiast and author, do you have any tips for being a more mindful client during a nail appointment?
TDH: Being on time is really important, especially for complex designs. Even just 10 minutes can throw off the whole schedule or affect someone else’s appointment. If you’re indecisive, it helps to have an idea of what you want—whether it’s a design or color—before you sit down. I think learning how to advocate for yourself is crucial. Ideally, your nail artist wants you to be happy, so they’d much rather redo something, like a French tip, than have you leave frustrated and possibly tip less.
Open communication is key. I’ve never had a problem asking my nail artist for adjustments—like, “Can you make the French tips a little higher or lower?” Don’t be afraid to speak up. Also, keep phone conversations to a minimum, and use headphones if you need to talk or listen to something. And of course, let your nails properly cure under the UV light—try not to move around too much or knock things over. Oh, and avoid wearing linty sweaters. (Laughs) I learned that the hard way when I had to get a whole manicure redone because of it.
Finding a nail artist who feels like a great fit and understands your vibe is special. What should we look out for when selecting a nail artist?
TDH: It’s important to know what matters most to you because everyone has different preferences. If you’re into precision or specific details like crisp polka dots or photorealism, train your eye to look for that in someone’s nail art. Personally, I prefer a specific type of French and shape, and I don’t mind if the lines aren’t perfectly equidistant—it gives a hand-drawn feel. Be patient, though, as not every artist will be a perfect fit. Some prioritize nail prep, others focus on longevity, so understand what you care about.
As for green flags, look for artists who don’t drill your natural nails unless you’re getting acrylics. Drilling can damage your nail bed. You want someone who prioritizes both aesthetic and nail health. So, be clear about your preferences and find someone who aligns with both your style and care needs.
