The Truth About SPF: Why Black Women Should Be Protecting Their Skin Year-Round – Essence

When it comes to SPF and melanated skin, the myths have been running rampant for far too long. Some folks still believe that the rich melanin acts as a natural barrier against the sun, making sunscreen unnecessary—but that’s simply not true.

Melanated skin is just as vulnerable to sun damage, hyperpigmentation, and even skin cancer as any other complexion. The good news is that today’s SPF formulations are stepping up for us, delivering protection that blends beautifully without leaving a chalky residue. It’s time to debunk the myths and prioritize sun care as part of our everyday glow-up routine.

Below, Dr. Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology, discusses the myths around SPF and melanin, and why you need to protect your skin year-round. 

What is SPF?

Dr. Hartman notes that SPF, which stands for sun protection factor, measures how much solar energy to produce a sunburn on protected skin. There are two categories of sunscreens, which are mineral and chemical. “Mineral sunscreens use UV filters that sit on top of the skin, effectively blocking rays from penetrating the skin’s surface,” says Dr. Hartman. “Chemical sunscreens use approved UV filters that transform UV rays when absorbed into the skin into heat.” Mineral filters have titanium dioxide and zinc oxide while chemical filters have oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate and octisalate.

What are the benefits of SPF and why use it year-round? 

Sunscreen protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays from the sun.  “Ultraviolet A or ‘UVA’ rays age the skin, meaning they put you at risk for accelerated skin aging, resulting in sun spots, fine lines and wrinkles and dull, tired skin,” says Dr. Hartman. “Ultraviolet B or ‘UVB’ rays are the burning rays, meaning they burn the skin. Both UVA and UVB rays are dangerous and can lead to accelerated skin aging and skin cancer.”

Wearing sunscreen is one of the most important things you can do for your skin. Dr. Hartman notes that adding and applying sunscreen every day is part of what he calls the “Holy Trinity of Skincare.” UV rays are sneaky and can still reach your skin whether you’re outside or sitting by a window. “The sun shines year round, and while its rays may not be as intense as they are in the warmer months, they still have enough strength to cause damage to your skin,” says Dr. Hartman. “The higher in elevation, the stronger the sun’s rays, which increases risk for sunburn and skin damage.”

What are the misconceptions around SPF? 

In the Black community, the quote “Black people don’t need sunscreen” because of its natural protection, but the truth is, UV rays can still cause damage like hyperpigmentation and aging. Many sunscreens leave a chalky cast, which makes people not use SPF.  

“While it is true that darker skin provides some level of SPF protection, it is only SPF 5 to SPF 8, which is minimal protection,” says Dr. Hartman, noting that Black skin can still get sunburn, which leads to damage deep into the skin. The board-certified dermatologist also notes that some patients believe that the higher the number of SPF, the more protection they’ll have on the skin. “At minimum you should be using a broad spectrum SPF 30, and even going up to SPF 50 can add an additional layer of protection,” says Dr. Hartman. “Once you go above 50, the higher SPF ratings only offer marginal improvements in sun protection.”

Dr. Hartman recommends Isdin’s Eryfotona Actinica Ultralight Emulsion Broad Spectrum SPF 50+, CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion, and Shiseido Clear Sunscreen Stick 50+ to use as a SPF.